The latest fashion news, beauty coverage, celebrity style, fashion week updates, culture reviews, and videos on Vogue.com. And their strategy is to use the stuff that surrounds a runway show the theatrics, the marketing, the celebrities to promote a sense of newness when little is actually new or special. . The young generation, with whom Raf is in touch, are all busy inventing new systems for themselves. We all know that he's a favorite among celebrities like Kanye West and A$AP Rocky, but. Simons speaks Flemish, and his accent is strong and guttural. And he sold to, I dont remember, seven or nine clients. . How big can a farm to table downtown menswear brand inspired by Grandmas tablecloths and old quilts get and still be cool? Balenciaga wrought revolutions. Raf Simons tunic tops from the Spring 2014 collection, when he went super pop and printed wavy, optimistic phrases that felt pulled from 1950s magazine ads onto polyester tunics and T-shirts.. Sign up for our daily newsletter to unpack the business of luxury in China. Its not like he died, as Casavant told me. You can picture the conversation. The influential designer has irrevocably changed the face of mens wear. And so today's announcement that Raf Simonsinnovative menswear designer; alum of Jil Sander, Christian Dior and Calvin Kleinwould be joining Prada as co-creative director, with the two famously opinionated personalities will work together to reimagine the brand for the 2020s, seems like a masterstroke of innovative thinking. He shifts the goalposts. The Look: Titled "Parade," the collection was an homage to America, warts and all, from remixed band uniforms to sharp power broker tailoring, sturdy denim and patchworked coats to shrink-wrapped. Casavant said his doctor recently asked, during an appointment, if his teenage nephew could come to Casavants office and see his archive of Simonss clothing. For the past two years, his collections have been intensely personal: One was literally pasted with images of Simonss past, patchworked together, juxtaposing a passport image of the designer as a teenager, a photograph of his parents, a Japanese woodcut. And my dad would say . Those are the kind of things youre not supposed to talk about in fashion. Hedi Slimane was then at Yves Saint Laurent, and I recall snagging a djellaba in lightweight gray wool from the YSL boutique in Saint-Sulpice during a shopping run with Andr Leon Talley. Get insights, analysis, and breaking news from our on-the-ground reporters. His birthday came a week before his fall show. 10 Pairs of Sandals That Make Me Want to Show Off My Toes, Thats One Way to Announce Your Separation, In a three-hour sit-down with the New York, Shein Takes Influencers on Factory Tour. Its too early to predict whether this means that these sneakers are going to reach high price premiums, though it is highly likely. Enough for any one designer who wants to have some semblance of balance in their private life. Arguably, of the two, Simons has more in common with the latter, a relentless Modernist with a Spartan aesthetic and a love of complex construction. I doubt a designer can have that kind of trajectory anymore. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. Schoolboy Denim Blazer. If its safe enough for 7-year-old Saint West, its safe enough for you right? Its not that Im against that. It isnt autobiographical. . Elegant, and beautiful, and modern, sometimes. Its not so on the surface, its not so glamour and parties. It was so different. Simons gets emotional talking about that show even today. That sounds like a lot of security, and a lot of work, especially as he shuttles to and from between Milan and his home in Antwerp. One could have even called Raf by Raf Simons his passion project. Taking positions at houses, doing things on the side. Simons told me the show was about Martin Margiela, about his memories and connection to the designer that triggered his entry into fashion. Hair by Odile Gilbert for Exposure NY. He injected mens wear with cultish youth affiliations before anyone else was doing it, back in the mid-90s. 20 Photos Photo: Thibault Camus/AP/Corbis Raf Simons is leaving Christian Dior. Its Yves Klein blue, Pollocked with bleach. In his studio in Antwerp, the mens wear designer ponders a future as an artist or a farmer. Simons is constantly questioning. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement and Your California Privacy Rights. Brand-new arrivals from amazing brands on sale. . he stops, sighs. I am grateful for the incredible support from my team, from my collaborators, from the press and buyers, from my friends and family, and from our devoted fans and loyal followers. Whats compelling is the fissure in Simonss image that his diffusion line has caused, and the reaction this has inspired in his diehard fans. More cryptic are the phrases memory wear, likely a reference to his spring 2015 collectionwhose clothes featured collaged items from his childhood (a kitten, a roller coaster, an astronaut) as well as images of his parents when they were datingand Station to Station, a 1976 David Bowie album and song that featured prominently in the movie Christiane F, a favorite of the designers (in 2018, he launched a capsule collection inspired by the movie). Japanese clients. But no fashion. Should it be different? No. Rachel Tashjian is the Fashion News Director at Harpers Bazaar, working across print and digital platforms. That men could manifest themselves the way that women manifest themselves.. It not only reflects his specific interests, his personal fixations, but the moment in which each design is devised. For comparison, its surely the equivalent of the shock- mourning followed by shopping-panic that women went through when Phoebe Philo left Celine. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. I asked dentists to weigh in on the risks. So while Im a bit sad that Raf Simons will soon be history, I know that the ideas that the brand embodied will go on. Its probably my all-time favorite Simons show, a master class in extreme tailoring and guys in pared-down black T-shirts and biker shorts. No one had thought of doing that before, coupling music and mens wear together to publicly explore their own teenage subcultural affiliations. Rubys work examines notions of masculinity, of urban spaces, of violence. His work seems to fight against all that. Bowie has long been a touchstone for Simons: There were tees screen printed with images of Aladdin Sane in his first collection, and his debut at Calvin Klein opened with Bowies track This Is Not America.. After rigorous testing, here are our favorites. Is it coincidental that the Belgian brand is closing at such a time, moving away from Adidas drops before the shoes popularity finally wanes (if it ever does)? No fewer than 12 new designer collaborations with Mattel allow anyone to be the doll of her dreams. Raf Simons Antwerp SAMPLE Sale - Walter Van Beirendonck. Casavant speculates that it has something to do with how Simonss career developed. He means Dior. Get Ready. Vogue may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. The Bisexual Gardener Making Out With a Tattooed Chef This week's sex diary. Then, after three and a half years, he was gone. The show, staged during. Classic Double Breasted Alpaca & Wool Coat (60% off) 60% off. Its not mine.. Its not for nothing, I think, that he signed off yesterdays instagram post with Forward always, Raf.. . The Picasso ceramics, for instance, inspired the penultimate womens wear collection of his tenure at Jil Sander, where Simons worked for seven years, designing the mens and womens lines. The success of a pop parody like Jocelyns World Class Sinner should come as no surprise. It was named the Wool Perfecto Jacket. He wants to make clothes we havent seen before, not just another white shirt. For his fall 1997 runway show, he dressed models as Kraftwerk and played their music as the soundtrack. Hes speaking of his teenage years: 13, 14. His father was a soldier; his mother cleaned houses. 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I think its more connected to the fact that I was doing this other thing, Simons says. Raf Simons Founder and creative director: Raf Simons Co-creative director: Prada (2020) Chief creative officer: Calvin Klein (2016-18) Creative director: Christian Dior (2012-15), Jil Sander (2005-12) Now Simons has joined forces with Miuccia Prada. Of the many things that have remained consistent about Simons over the years, one is that ability to look at things closely and analyze them. Some have cited the much earlier departures of the fashion gods Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela as having parallels with Raf. Because in a world filled with so much stuff, Raf Simons creates something that matters. Whatever post-American psychological fallout is going on in Simons's life, it hasn't affected his . When I showed it to Linda, she sent me to this agent. they generally sold below retail on resale sites, and cannot be compared to coveted styles like Aim Leon Dores New Balances or the Fragment x Sacai x Nike drops their role in pushing fashions embrace of sportswear was never in question. All rights reserved. 10 Pairs of Sandals That Make Me Want to Show Off My Toes, Thats One Way to Announce Your Separation, In a three-hour sit-down with the New York, Shein Takes Influencers on Factory Tour. Photo: Adidas. . . Simons shrugs. "The Garden of Earthly Delights", a triptych painted by Hieronymus Bosch between 1590 and 1610, was the starting point for Raf Simons ' present Christian Dior Haute Couture collection for AW15. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. . I didnt really think it over but with my own brand, I have became very protective, almost. From Rihanna to Vic Mensa, Big Sean to ASAP Rocky, rappers love Raf Simons. He sells to a number of stores around the world, but the commercial impact of his line is second to its creative heft. Password must be at least 8 characters and contain: As part of your account, youll receive occasional updates and offers from New York, which you can opt out of anytime. I could relate to it. Its not only the style, its not only the aesthetic, its also how it sits in the fashion world, how people look at it, and how people criticize it . 20 years after its inception in 1995, the Raf Simons label had become an oracle for a pre-Internet notion of beauty and freedom. When the clothes first arrived in stores in 2006, they were distinctly poor in qualitysomething his fans quickly picked up on. The first couple of seasons established Raf Simons' focus on capturing youth subculture. I wish it was where womens fashion is. Meaning he wishes that more designers were like him willing to fashion a new identity for men in the same way they do for women. The emotional outpouring over the loss of such a fashion hero to his original inner-cohort of 1990s followers, now in their fifties and sixties, and the new global generation of cult brand obsessives is being played out all over social media. People ask me, Why dont you push it up, and make it big? His voice hardens. Something youre never really aware of or maybe something youve always been very aware of but you never really think it over: the fact that it is your thing. . These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. The contemporary pieces dotting his apartment are almost a chart for the inspirations and instincts that have powered his career. In our village there was no cinema, no museum, no gallery, no boutique. In Paris, Simons takes a bow at his spring 2022 fashion show. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. By Vanessa Friedman. Lionel Boyce and Travis Bennett on Their Evolution of Taste, Natasha Newman-Thomas on Vintage Prada, Bloody Feet, and Styling, Nicole Flattery is Writing Novels for the Losers and Freaks, Brontez Purnell and Charlie Engman on Branding, Bottoms, and Being Objectified, Arden Wohl Looks Back on the Glory Days of the Downtown Scene. They challenge the status quo, frequently championing the dispossessed. The same vanishing act occurs in other creative fields, as the obituary in the Times for the great art director George Lois, who died last week, noted. In short, the Belgian designer was one of the great innovators in sportswear collaborations, walking so that designers such as Wales Bonner, Gucci, and Balenciaga could all run confidently with Adidas. All rights reserved. Raf Simons: I have to be really honest with you, we didn't really do a lot, besides working. More to the point, I didnt bother to investigate. Production: Ragi Dholakia Productions. This email will be used to sign into all New York sites. If fashion inevitably meets music in Simonss work, it also meets art. By Louis Staples how i get it done 7:00 a.m. How Media Mogul Mo Abudu Gets It Done She's been described as "Africa's most successful woman," "one of the most powerful women in global television," and "the African Oprah." sex diaries Yesterday at 8:00 p.m. Now, nearly two decades later, many are claiming sneaker culture has reached boiling point. As much as he dutifully accepted the responsibilities that come with the most high-profile job in fashion, with his own line he has grown increasingly introspective. Digital Operator: Nico Fallet. And that damage may very well have been enough to propel any Simons enthusiast into a state of denialwhich may, in turn, help explain the indeterminate timeline of Raf by Raf Simons and the line that replaced it. That fall season, the designer shared the label on his clothes with the artist, a recognition of what a true collaboration, an extraordinary fusion of the fashion and art worlds, could look like. No, this is the thing, he told me. And I just thought How am I going to do this? There was no thinking time I had to create a company., Originally, Simons was to design the line with two female friends. Looks like the beautiful company failed to showcase its brutal working conditions. Mix up a tonal look with unexpected textures. Because the announcement, on Instagram, did not give a reason, speculation has focused on financial troubles and/or the possibility that Miuccia Prada will soon retire. All rights reserved.
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